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Medium RawI think that Keller long ago achieved that ideal state of haute nirvana where it matters not at all to the quality of food or service whether or not he is in attendance on any given night at any particular restaurantБЂ”and IБЂ™m happy for him about that. It is a testament to his excellence, his unwavering standards, and to the excellence of the teams and systems and institutions heБЂ™s created, that this is so. Per Se in New York City has four New York Times starsБЂ”along with three from Michelin. They deserve every one of them. YouБЂ™d have a very difficult time making the argument that there is a БЂњbetterБЂ« restaurant in America. So, why, I ask myself, did I come home from Per Se heartbroken last night? And why, in the hours since, has an unarticulated, indefinable sadness hung over meБЂ”a cloud that followed me home, an evil imp on my shoulder whispering terrible things into my skull? Like the spare tire around my waistБЂ”something I just donБЂ™t want to acknowledge. Maybe if I creep up on this thing slowlyБЂ”this spirit-destroying guinea worm wriggling around inside me, threatening my happiness, making me a bad personБЂ”maybe if I stab blindly at him with a cocktail fork, with a lucky shot I can reel the whole fucker out and resume life as it was before ...» |
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