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Medium RawBrothБЂ”usually (but not absolutely always) the savory-sweet extraction of many beef bone, heavy on the marrow. Not too darkБЂ”definitely not too light. Chances are, there are three or four enormous pots of the stuff going now behind the counter, steam rising to the ceiling, the proprietor ladling the stuff straight off the top. Locals will tell you itБЂ™s all about the broth. If the broth isnБЂ™t right, the best ingredients in the world arenБЂ™t going to save it. Rice noodles. And theyБЂ™d better be right, too. Too soft, too old, or too cooked? ItБЂ™s shit. Too chewy? Same. Handmade and cooked to orderБЂ”or at least in constantly ongoing batches, please. Classically, in Hanoi, the meat component is beefБЂ”and beef tendon, but preferences vary as to the exact mix. The counter behind the glass of my favorite place in the Old Quarter is stacked with pre-boiled beef shoulders: the perfect balance of lean and fat; and many prefer thisБЂ”and only this: sliced ever so thinly onto the surface of their broth, where it wilts and relaxes and nearly dissolves into sublime tenderness ...» |
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