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Medium RawSo I invited Eric Ripert out for dinner and plied him with high-end tequila (which is something of a weakness of his), and when he was in suitably good spirits and nicely relaxed, the time was ripe. I suggested he join me for a rollicking good time cooking together at Les Halles. ItБЂ™ll be fun, you knowБЂ¦ The result is something IБЂ™m very proud of. I managed (just) to bully my way through the night (a not very busy one, by current Les Halles standards). It was hard. Very hard. Made harder by the fact that I could no longer read the dupes. When IБЂ™d try and slip on my reading glasses, by the time they reached my nose, they were invariably smeared with grease. My knees were creaky, to say the least. But my moves were still there. I could stillБЂ”if just barelyБЂ”do it. But at the end of the night, I knew that to do it again tomorrowБЂ”as any real cook would have had to doБЂ”was out of the question. Eric, to my surprise, was smooth. IБЂ™d hoped that he, whoБЂ™d never in his life worked in a turn-and-burn joint like mine, whoБЂ™d never had to hustle out hundreds of platesБЂ”much less grill steaks in such quantities and at such speedsБЂ”I figured heБЂ™d be thrown for a loop. But no ...» |
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